Thursday, May 24, 2007
"The IQ of room temperature..."
Around midnight last night the boredom again struck, and I decided to go outside and review technical rope skills in the tree outside my apartment. There's a big Oak tree in the few feet between the building and the parking lot, and it's a little ways off the sidewalk so I hoped to remain unnoticed. I mean, it was the middle of the night- who in their right mind would be up and about at that hour? Well for some odd reason the boredom apparently wasn't limited to Apartment 78A- several of my neighbors decided it was time to go out. The first guy out got into his car right on the other side of the fence from where I was crouched. He couldn't see me, but the rope dangling down near the side of the building was clearly visible above the fence. The car started- I tensed and waited, causing the rope I was already tethered into to wiggle some more. The car door opened again and he got out. Game's up, I thought- but no- he got back in and drove off. A few minutes later I was 25 feet off the ground and feeling smug about my extreme stealthiness when the flashing lights of a squad car cruised down the road and slowed in front of my building. The officer pulled onto my street and stopped, and I just knew that sneaky low-down neighbor of mine had called in a report of a burglary in progress at my apartment complex. Amazingly though, I realized that the cop wasn't there for me. He was actually pulling somebody over.
At this point I'd had enough of the drama. It was time to switch over from my ascenders to a rappel and get back inside before my rap device earned me an actual rap sheet. Technically I wasn't doing anything wrong, but I highly doubt whether anyone would have believed me. I know I wouldn't have. I'd have nodded and smiled, then dialed 911 asap. "Hello 911? I'd like to report a white male, late 20's, near the roof of the apartment building...." I was just starting to rappel when another guy came out. No problem, I was well up in the tree and I'd just wait for him to leave and then continue. The only hitch in my plan was that he wouldn't leave. He got something out of his trunk, threw some trash in the dumpster, had a smoke leaning against the side of his car, talked on his cell phone, went back to the dumpster. You get the idea. The minutes dragged on as I hung limply from my harness, maintaining tension on the Munter Hitch I was using to rappel. I finally decided I didn't want to be there all night and determined to shoot for a fast rappel while his back was turned. I made it down a few feet, just below the cover of the leaf canopy, when his girlfriend decided to come out and join the fun. I mean, what better place and time to have an argument with your significant other than in the parking lot of your apartment complex at midnight, right? So much for my get-away plan. His back was to me, but she was facing directly towards me. Not only that, but she too had a cigarette, and was doing that thing smokers do, where they take a long drag on the cigarette and then tilt their head back to blow the smoke up in the air. She was looking RIGHT AT ME. I hung there silent and motionless, wishing I had the power to disappear. An 11 millimeter static line isn't much to hide behind. I was fully prepared for the inevitable at any second- a scream followed by- "oh my gosh there's a BODY HANGING FROM THAT TREE!" I had no particular desire to be tied up (har har) in a homicide investigation any more than a burglary.
I couldn't go back up- too much movement and noise to rig the ascenders. I couldn't go down- if they didn't' believe my story I'd be spending the night downtown answering questions. Even if they did believe me, it would still be my most embarrassing moment ever ("how long have you been up there listening to us?" etc. You get the idea).
There's a malady among climbers and cavers called Harness Hang Syndrome (HHS). The basic idea is that as long as you're moving around in a harness, you're fine, but if you hang motionless you will go into hypovolemic shock, lose consciousness and die, sometimes within mere minutes. It's actually true: http://www.texasroperescue.com/library/Harness%20Hang%20Syndrome.htm. Now I don't want to alarm anybody, but this entire post is a dramatization of a silly predicament, so why not go all the way with it. I'm not exactly saying I was at death's door, but I will say that I was not comfortable. The minutes felt like hours. My legs and back were tense and aching, and my arm was tired from holding tension on the rappel. Every time I loosened my grip even a little I'd slide down the rope another inch or two, causing the branch to which the rope was anchored to shake.
For some inexplicable reason I escaped detection. The argument ended with the dude storming off and his girlfriend following. Needless to say I wasn't waiting around to see if they'd come back or who else would show up. I staged an immediate extraction from the roof of the laundry room- I retrieved my gear and made a beeline for my apartment, slamming the door with a euphoric feeling that I had gotten very very lucky. Maybe I wasn't actually as exposed as I felt. Fortunately I had hauled up the tail end of the rope below me- I'm sure that would have been a dead giveaway. And I gotta say it was pretty cool acting all special ops commando with my black gloves and technical gear. It felt like those old war movies where the good guys swoop in from above on the ignorant and unsuspecting guards enjoying a cigarette down below.
Did I learn a valuable lesson from this? You bet- I'm going to bed at 9:30 tonight.
Monday, May 14, 2007
Half Dome
Good view of Half Dome from the trail
The Cliffs of Insanity. Incontheivable!!
I arrived on top just as this client was finishing a guided climb of the Northwest face that took around 3 days. I offered to e-mail him some pictures, which I'm sure he'll be glad to have.
I'm standing here on what's called the Springboard, or the Devil's Pulpit. (I've heard both.)
Here's part of our group on the descent. 17 miles round trip with 4,000' of elevation gain was enough to wear everybody out!
View from the top of Vernal Falls. (M & D, you may recognize the spot where we turned back when you visited. See the big dead tree? =)
The Mist Trail descending from Vernal Falls.
O Lord my God,
When I in awesome wonder,
Consider all the worlds Thy Hands have made;
I see the stars, I hear the rolling thunder,
Thy power throughout the universe displayed.Then sings my soul, My Saviour God, to Thee,
How great Thou art!
When through the woods, and forest glades I wander,
And hear the birds sing sweetly in the trees.
When I look down, from lofty mountain grandeur
And see the brook, and feel the gentle breeze.Then sings my soul, My Saviour God, to Thee,
How great Thou art!
And when I think, that God, His Son not sparing;
Sent Him to die, I scarce can take it in;
That on the Cross, my burden gladly bearing,
He bled and died to take away my sin.Then sings my soul, My Saviour God, to Thee,
How great Thou art!
words & music by Carl G. Boberg and R.J. Hughes
Thursday, May 10, 2007
Catalina Island
Mark on the walkway to the "Casino," which is actually a movie theater now. My friends Seth and Jeremy tell me they watched the first Pirates of the Caribbean movie here, with the real sounds of the ocean wafting in through the open balcony above. How awesome would that be?!
Jeremy and I in between dives. Our fist dive the visibility wasn't so great, and the surge actually made me sick, but it was still awesome. Dramamine next time...
You can rent kayaks at this small beach on the other side of the Casino.
Sunset as seen from the Ferry on the way back.
Monday, May 07, 2007
Dome Rock
John is lowered on belay after a top-roped climb.
Christie setting up protection for an additional route.
Spring-loaded camming devices (SLCD's) in this crack form the belay anchor for the 2nd and 3rd pitches. The crack is also what makes this route a relatively easy climb.
Christie approaching Bo and the 3rd belay station.
The climb was rated only 5.7, which is fairly easy, but it was perfect for me. Anyway, nothing's easy when you're a few hundred feet off the ground and the wind is blowing your snot sideways. I learned a lot and had a ton of fun. And going with the SMR folks is awesome- their knowledge of the locale, experience and focus on safety is both invaluable and free!
Oh, and in related news, on our way home, there was an official callout for a search and rescue, close to the area we had just left! An 81 yr old man with dementia was reported missing. The sherriff's office basically needed "ground-pounders," since it wasn't a technical rescue, and the county has teams for ground searches. A few SMR people responded nonetheless. As of today, the search is still ongoing. The subject's car has been located high on a jeep trail in the mountains, after having been driven with a flat tire more than twenty miles. Tracks and scent have been found heading south and downhill. The temperature up there has been dropping below freezing at night, so we all hope this gentleman is found soon. I didn't respond because I had a prior committment and I'm not yet qualified by the county (they're still in the process of conducting a background check).
Friday, May 04, 2007
Thursday, May 03, 2007
Alta Peak
Ran into these tracks maybe a mile from the trailhead. Most of you know I have big hands- this bear's print was massive! Certainly bigger than any others I've seen.
View to the South from Panther Gap
Glimpse of the Great Western Divide above the trail to Mehrton Meadow.
Avalanche runoff in the gully below Tharp's Rock.
There's something especially fulfilling about crossing an untracked snowfield at 11,000 feet.
The final approach was bare rock to I scampered up it without my poles and snowshoes.
Watch your step! My little camera doesn't really give a good sense of the vastness and steepness of the terrain. Several spots had me freaking out just a little bit, and I went up the last 10 feet or so on all fours =)
I ran into a guy on vacation from the UK on the way down, and he offered to take my picture.
View of Pear Lake (frozen and snow-covered) just Northwest of Alta.
View to the East from the summit.
Looking several hundred feet down the North face of Alta.
Tharp's Rock as seen from Alta. It's actually several hundred feet lower in elevation. I really want to scramble up that when I come back this summer!
Another view of the Great Western Divide.
I always enjoy most the things that I have to work for, and this hike was no exception. For me, climbing a mountain is an exhilarating experience. The scenery took my breath away, and all I can do is thank God for creating such beauty and giving me the health and opportunity to enjoy it.
Tuesday, April 24, 2007
auto theft
I know a guy here who puts a wheel lock, a steering wheel lock, and a brake lock on his Jeep every time he parks it, even if he's just grabbing coffee at a convenience store. (He admits he's a bit paranoid.) If I had a vehicle that I didn't the think my insurance company would give me full value for, I might be a little more concerned, but right now my Blue Book value's still pretty high, and if Fiona went AWOL I'd just have an excuse to upgrade.
The article says that one of the latest anti-theft methods that law enforcement is utilizing is the use of "bait cars," vehicles which are purposely left vulnerable, and are equipped with satellite tracking devices. And once one of these bait cars is stolen, the police can not only track it- get this- they can remotely turn off the engine and lock the perps inside! How cool is that?! My tax dollars are finally doing something worthwhile. The only improvement I can see is if they could slap some giant "CAR THIEF" stickers on the side and remotely parade the vehicle and its occupants around town for a day or two before driving to the jail.
Monday, April 23, 2007
Heaven
Last night I picked up a book I've been meaning to finish for probably over a year: The Sacred Romance: Drawing Closer to the Heart of God, by Brent Curtis and John Eldredge. I wouldn't say that the book changed my life per se, but there were a few things that stood out to me from what I read last night. The chapter was titled, "Coming Home," and was on the subject of hope and heaven. Here are a few excerpts that caught my attention:
"A story is only as good as its ending. Without a happy ending that draws us on in eager anticipation, our journey becomes a nightmare of endless struggle. Is this all there is? Is this as good as it gets?"
"If for all practical purposes we believe that this life is our best shot at happiness..., we will live as desperate, demanding, and eventually despairing men and women. We will place on this world a burden it was never intended to bear."
"Our images [of heaven] aren't much better. We speak so seldom of heaven and when we do, the images are sickly: fat babies fluttering around with tiny wings, bored saints lazing on shapeless clouds, strumming harps and wondering what's happening back on earth where the real action is.
“The fact that most Christians have a gut sense that earth is more exciting than heaven points to the deceptive powers of the enemy and our own failure of imagination.”
“Married people can be the loneliest on earth, not for some failure of the marriage, but because they have tasted the best there is of human relationships, and know it is not all it was meant to be.”
“The crisis of hope that afflicts the church today is a crisis of imagination. Catholic philosopher Peter Kreeft writes:
Medieval imagery (which is almost totally biblical imagery) of light, jewels, stars candles, trumpets, and angels no longer fits our ranch-style, supermarket world. Pathetic modern substitutes of fluffy clouds, sexless cherubs, harps and metal halos (not halos of light) presided over by a stuffy divine Chairman of the Bored are a joke, not a glory, Even more modern, more up-to-date substitutes- Heaven as a comfortable feeling of peace and kindness, sweetness and light, and God as a vague grandfatherly benevolence, a senile philanthropist- are even more insipid. Our pictures of Heaven simply do not move us; they are not moving pictures. It is this aesthetic failure rather than intellectual or moral failures in our pictures of Heaven and of God that threatens faith most potently today. Our pictures of Heaven are dull, platitudinous and syrupy; therefore, so is our faith, our hope, and our love of Heaven…. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a dull lie or a dull truth. Dullness, not doubt, is the strongest enemy of faith, just as indifference, not hate, is the strongest enemy of love. (Everything You Wanted to Know About Heaven)”
Friday, April 13, 2007
blog status update
Here's the deal: When I started this blog last year, I was in the middle of a bunch of exciting new things-cross country move, new city and state, new job, etc. I had things to blog about. Interesting things.
I've been here six months now and frankly, I don't think my current happenings are all that exciting to write about. If you really want to hear about the most recent SMR training event, or the last estate plan I drew up, or what church was like on Sunday, please by all means pick up your phone and call me. I have free evenings and weekends. Or send an e-mail my way. I love hearing from family and friends.
I'm going to continue to update here when I think I have something that's worth writing about, but I'm not going to scrape the bottom of the barrel, so to speak, in an attempt to provide once or twice a week posts. See, I think I've figured it out- just about all my family and friends who blog have young kids, and their blogs pretty much chronicle the funny and cute things their kids do and say. It's always fresh and interesting because babies and kids are always developing and doing/saying funny and cute things. Unfortunately I don't have any babies, and what I've been up to lately is pretty much more of the same things I've been blogging about since I got out here: SMR, work, going to church or the gym. That's about it.
I certainly don't want to assume that people are interested in anything I have to say anyway. I just don't want to disappoint my mother, who seems to want regular updates, and one or two others who indicate that they check my blog once in a while. so I'm hoping to change my official blog status from "regular" to "occasional," like maybe once a month or so. Fair enough?
Wednesday, March 07, 2007
winter training, Hospital Rock
Yesterday I took the day off work and went rock climbing with my assigned SMR mentor, Tony. I recently purchased most of the personal gear the team requires each member to have for ascending, belaying, and self-rescue, and I was eager to break it in as well as try out some of the techniques I've been reading about. While I was belaying Tony on our first pitch, he had a little slip, fell about 6 or 8 feet, and I arrested the fall with the help of our belay system: passive protection in the rock face, rope, and belay device. Thankfully, Tony was fine and we got to experience how the system works first hand.
There wasn’t much opportunity for photography because even when you're not climbing you're belaying or setting up/dismantling an anchor. I did manage to grab a few though.
Tony setting up a top-rope anchor on the ledge above our second pitch.
Tony was the lead, I "seconded," and I had the these bags attached to the haul loop in the back of my harness so we could pull our gear up after us (ripped a hole in my pack, too =)

Here's Tony lead climbing a section that was supposedly rated 5.8 or 5.9. He came "off belay" at that little ledge so I could take the pic.
This is a partially bolted route, meaning it's used fairly often and there are several bolts in the rock you can clip into for protection. Other protection we had to place as we went.
Hospital Rock is the name of the place inside Sequioa Natl' Park where we were. The face is over 300' feet high, although the section shown in this pic wasn't quite sheer.
A couple more bolts about 2/3rds of the way up. Beautiful spot to take lunch!
We had awesome weather. It was in the 70's .
TonySMR had an overnight winter training event a few weeks back. We reviewed snow anchors and various avalanche topics such as snowpack assessment, beacon work, and probing. Avalanches are no joke. Some of the world's most experienced mountaineers have met their deaths buried alive in snow that sets up like concrete once the slide stops. Anyway, training with the avalanche beacons is lots of fun. The beacons are simple transceivers that can transmit their position as well as home in on locations of other beacons. To practice, we simulated actual rescue/recovery scenarios by burying a beacon in the snow and then sending out teams or individuals to locate it as quickly as possible. It's essentially the same as your basic treasure hunt, but with a handheld device to tell you "hot" or "cold" instead of family members. But just like a sly older brother or uncle, the beacons can sometimes play tricks on you, giving a false signal due to interference, refraction, etc. At days end we dug some snug little tent platforms into the snow and set up camp. One of the cool things about winter camping in lots of snow is that you can level your tent site however you like, as well as dig trenches/benches for cooking. Again, not a whole lot of pics because we were pretty busy the whole time, but here are a few, out of order:
staking down the tents using ice axes, treking poles, and snowshoes (regular tent stakes don't work in soft snow)
melting snow for water, using an avalanche shovel to keep the stove from melting through the snow.
Chuck's bivy, and the Big Baldy radio tower destroying the ambiance in the background.

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